Here is the condensed version of our trip to Shiraishi Island:
Who: the Rising Family.
What: a three-day, two-night trip to Shiraishi Island in the Seto Inland Sea off Okayama prefecture.
Why: it's warm, cheap, accessible-yet-remote, interesting, and populated by friendly locals.
When: the last weekend in February 2009.
Where: (see below.) Only accessible by a 30-minute ferry ride to the island.
The long version:
One benefit of the economic carnage afflicting my industry is that most days I arrive home comparatively early (read: before 1800, no overtime). I also get an extra two days off per month (read: unpaid and compulsory). Looking at this semi-harsh reality in a positive way, and to beat the late February blues, we opted to go for a cheap Friday-Sunday weekend getaway. Our familial fandango was to a small island called Shiraishi, which lies off the coast of Okayama prefecture, not too far from Hiroshima city. It only takes about two hours by freeway to reach Kasaoka, the port where you must board the ferry to Shiraishi.
Since I have an incurable map fetish, I will include these to improve your geographic IQ:
One benefit of the economic carnage afflicting my industry is that most days I arrive home comparatively early (read: before 1800, no overtime). I also get an extra two days off per month (read: unpaid and compulsory). Looking at this semi-harsh reality in a positive way, and to beat the late February blues, we opted to go for a cheap Friday-Sunday weekend getaway. Our familial fandango was to a small island called Shiraishi, which lies off the coast of Okayama prefecture, not too far from Hiroshima city. It only takes about two hours by freeway to reach Kasaoka, the port where you must board the ferry to Shiraishi.
Since I have an incurable map fetish, I will include these to improve your geographic IQ:
The Chugoku region: try to pronounce some of these places + Google Earth top view of Shiraishi.The name of the place, "Shiraishi," means "bigass white rock." Well, just "white rock." I first became interested in the island a few years ago, after reading several columns written by Amy Chavez, in the Japan Times. In these columns, she described her life as a foreigner on this small island in a fun and whimsical way, so I wanted to see the place for myself. The other reason we chose to go to Shiraishi is that Okayama prefecture operates a very reasonable hostel, called the Shiraishi Island International Villa. It provides a comfortable place to stay at a very reasonable price of 2,500 yen (about $C30, $US25) per person/night. The villa's design is functional, but has a sparse Japanese chic.
The kitchen is well stocked with utensils and appliances, so you can cook whatever you like. There are only a few restaurants on the island, so we cooked our own feast. The island, we were told, has a population of a little over 600 people.
So what did we do that might interest you?
Once we arrived on the island, it started drizzling a bit. We made a beeline to the villa and were delighted to find that we would be the only guests that night. There is no TV to watch—fine by us . Instead, there is a monster stereo, so we could crank the music and enjoy a tasty family dinner.
Nice.
Freakishly energetic throughout the day due to her new surroundings, Elena went to sleep earlier than usual, at 2130. Naomi and I could then indulge in a few unhurried drinks.
Very nice.
So what did we do that might interest you?
Once we arrived on the island, it started drizzling a bit. We made a beeline to the villa and were delighted to find that we would be the only guests that night. There is no TV to watch—fine by us . Instead, there is a monster stereo, so we could crank the music and enjoy a tasty family dinner.
Nice.
Freakishly energetic throughout the day due to her new surroundings, Elena went to sleep earlier than usual, at 2130. Naomi and I could then indulge in a few unhurried drinks.
Very nice.
Wanting to read and enjoy the night's silence, I laid out in front of the kerosene heater in the large living room, which is framed by huge windows on three sides. I practically inhaled New Yorkers and old issues of Kansai Time Out. When it is light out, this room provides a wonderful panoramic view down to the small beach. 
The villa's design is something I'd like to keep in mind for later in life...or when I win the lottery. Naomi and I both declared our love for the shape and functionality of the building, and the view. It has an intriguing way of incorporating traditional esthetics with modern convenience...East meets West in cement and wood.
The next morning, we went strolling around the inhabited part of the island, near the port. We both enjoyed just meandering through old narrow streets and observing how people live. Elena was perched on my shoulders, so she also had a good view of what was going on. Shiraishi was interesting, a window into an older era of Japan, and island life. It seems most people either fish or garden for a living. The people we spoke with -- many of them older folks -- were very nice to us and it appears that the villa has gotten them used to random gaijins wandering around. It was obvious we were staying at the villa, and, as with most small towns, the overall vibe was that everyone knew everyone, and doors need not be locked at night. The lack of any significant noise or road traffic was refreshing. We could let Lady E. roam around at her leisure.
There aren't any tourist attractions, per se, on Shiraishi save for a secluded Buddhist temple called Kobozan. A group of wild cats zealously guarded it. We fed them what scraps we'd brought with us, and Elena gleefully chased them around.
The villa's design is something I'd like to keep in mind for later in life...or when I win the lottery. Naomi and I both declared our love for the shape and functionality of the building, and the view. It has an intriguing way of incorporating traditional esthetics with modern convenience...East meets West in cement and wood.The next morning, we went strolling around the inhabited part of the island, near the port. We both enjoyed just meandering through old narrow streets and observing how people live. Elena was perched on my shoulders, so she also had a good view of what was going on. Shiraishi was interesting, a window into an older era of Japan, and island life. It seems most people either fish or garden for a living. The people we spoke with -- many of them older folks -- were very nice to us and it appears that the villa has gotten them used to random gaijins wandering around. It was obvious we were staying at the villa, and, as with most small towns, the overall vibe was that everyone knew everyone, and doors need not be locked at night. The lack of any significant noise or road traffic was refreshing. We could let Lady E. roam around at her leisure.
There aren't any tourist attractions, per se, on Shiraishi save for a secluded Buddhist temple called Kobozan. A group of wild cats zealously guarded it. We fed them what scraps we'd brought with us, and Elena gleefully chased them around.
In the afternoon, we went on a hike, taking the trail that started just behind the villa and snakes up all the way to the top observatory, which afforded a nice northern view of the island.
Eventually, the trail led us back to the temple we'd visited that morning, which must have been a metaphor for something, but I am too shallow to pick up on those things until long after the fact! So we played with the stray cats again. Then we started walking along the only highway which circumnavigates the southern tip of the island. There was some road construction and houses here and there. Once we reached the bottom part of the island, there wasn't much to see except for some massive granite masonry, old dilapidated factories and abandoned houses. We must have hiked several kilometers. Elena fell asleep on my shoulder for the last one-third of the walk. It was great to get copious amounts of fresh air peppered with sea smells and some much-needed exercise.
Naomi and I really enjoyed the time to talk and tease each other. It was a good first foray into hiking and related adventures for 2009. And this is in late February! It was at least 15 degrees that day... in your face, frozen Canuck relatives!
Eventually, the trail led us back to the temple we'd visited that morning, which must have been a metaphor for something, but I am too shallow to pick up on those things until long after the fact! So we played with the stray cats again. Then we started walking along the only highway which circumnavigates the southern tip of the island. There was some road construction and houses here and there. Once we reached the bottom part of the island, there wasn't much to see except for some massive granite masonry, old dilapidated factories and abandoned houses. We must have hiked several kilometers. Elena fell asleep on my shoulder for the last one-third of the walk. It was great to get copious amounts of fresh air peppered with sea smells and some much-needed exercise.Naomi and I really enjoyed the time to talk and tease each other. It was a good first foray into hiking and related adventures for 2009. And this is in late February! It was at least 15 degrees that day... in your face, frozen Canuck relatives!
She’s modeling the latest in mandatory fashion from one of the hottest under-six educational hotspots in the city! Confident in her simple schoolhouse chic, Lady E. is resplendent in this gray/black ensemble masterpiece of efficiency and – yes – elegance. The dress and white shirt entrée is topped off by the finest of head accessories. It’s clear Mme. Elena will soon be the eye of the hurricane in kindergarten style.
February: Still cold, but the Rising Daughter’s cuteness kept us happy and warm.
March: Still in the driver’s seat and working on mastering her plastic cutlery.
April:…in another driver’s seat at a kiddie arcade. (Weather warmer…free at last!).
May: Naomi and Elena coming down the chute at the Aquas Aquarium playground.
June: At the Miyajima Aquarium one last time before it closed for renovations.
July: A new fan in Uncle André (above) and Grandpa (below). Both photos from our visit to Ottawa.
August: At the Mazda Museum’s concept car exhibition.
September: Driving the car…it’s the other guy’s fault.
October: One last visit to the Tivoli Park in Okayama before it closed down. It was hilarious.
October: Swimming lessons…and not terribly happy about it right now.
November: Getting colder, but we still hit the park whenever we could.
December: Christmas Day. Everything in Japan is just a bit smaller than in Canada.
- Collecting our New Year’s greeting cards sent by family, friends and work-related acquaintances. The idea is similar to the Western custom of sending Christmas cards. We enjoy designing and sending out our New Year's postcards; it’s a tradition that is ever popular despite the Internet. People usually send them well in advance so that the post office can deliver them on January 1. The idea originated decades ago as a simple way to let people know you were still around or, if you had moved, your new address. The cards usually have a personal or family photo, a happy new year personalized greeting, and something featuring the animal of the Japanese Zodiac for the particular year, i.e. 2009 = Year of the Ox. (The Japanese Zodiac is derived from the ancient Chinese concept of a 12-year cycle, each year named after an animal which represents 12 different personalities which that year might exhibit. Words like dependable, methodical, tenacious and modest are used to describe the Year of the Ox. Regardless if there is anything to this Asian tradition, there is only room to improve after 2008, so let’s hope 2009 will be a bullish year!)
And here is the less family-friendly version I sent to my close friends who ‘get’ the joke. Hopefully, so will you. 
- Giving the mighty Laputa its annual wash and cleaning (ablution?) before we headed out to the Toshogu Shrine situated on a hill very close to Hiroshima station. And yes, it wasn't that cold here in the city. No snow so far this year...Yee-hah!
This hill, called Futabayama, is very close to our neighborhood, and there are about seven shrines aligned along its sides which have all been there for hundreds of years. Heading to the shrine for the first time in the New Year is called hatsumode, and people usually go to the shrines to pray for good fortune for the year ahead. Japanese people tend to visit a Shinto shrine or Buddhist temple on the first, second or third day of January because those are those days most people are on vacation from work. At the shrines, you can also buy omamori, which are amulets for good fortune, safe driving, good health etc.
- Taking off for a hot spring at a new mall in a Hiroshima suburb. Yep, a modern shopping plaza that has a hot spring...imagine a public bath next to a Sears and you get the picture. And it was a pretty good onsen, too. Naomi tells me that Lady E. generally likes the hot springs (a big, warm pool from her point of view?) but during our visit she apparently was not very happy and almost bolted outside of the ladies’ changing area buck-naked and wailing. Now that would have made an impression.
When I checked this out a local KFC outlet about a week ago, the reservation sheet was completely filled in for a week prior to, and after, Christmas Eve. Lady E. likes chicken, and I am still very curious about the ways Japanese people modify foreign products or traditions to meet local needs, but this rush just to eat yucky tucky is pushing the envelope for me. So we’ll settle for a home cooked meal on Christmas Eve instead.
