On January 21,
Martin Luther King Day, we drove down a small state highway to a public park. The rolling fields, open spaces, derelict
barns and countryside on both sides of our vehicle got me thinking about what I
have learned about the South. Open spaces do that. They draw out Big Thoughts. What
follows are a few.
My Grampa (Boppa)
sparked my youthful curiosity with eight-track tapes of old-time country music
stars like Kenny Rogers, Charley Pride, Johnny Horton and yes, Johnny Cash. Of
course, in rural Ontario where he lived, there were also rolling fields, open
spaces, derelict barns and countryside on both sides of the highway. But riding
around in his Ford pickup, I began to associate country music with the South. And
the funny accents I heard on TV —thank you, Beverly Hillbillies re-reruns— also
helped. In my adolescence I watched Ken Burns' documentaries about the Civil
War and later on about jazz and the blues.
The South, as a
concept, rather than a place that normal people lived, seemed somehow foreign, slow
paced, and different. But not the 'different' image reserved for England or
Australia. I spoke 'American', but the upstate New York variety thanks to Rochester
TV stations. The annual exodus of Canadians southward to warmth during the
bitter cold of winter held a separate charm. South of the Mason-Dixon line
remained distant, a place of capital H History, real BBQ and palmetto trees.
During my first long
motorcycle adventure across the continent, on the way west my buddy Brad Lozinski
and I rode through the Shenandoah Valley, down through to Tennessee.
I even stopped at the intersection of US 61 and US 49 in Clarksdale, Miss., where blues tourists pay their respects at the spot where it's said Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil in exchange for musical genius.
I even stopped at the intersection of US 61 and US 49 in Clarksdale, Miss., where blues tourists pay their respects at the spot where it's said Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil in exchange for musical genius.
I drove down a
couple of times in the 90s, tasting spring break In Florida one year, and indulged in a
caffeine-fueled frenetic weekend drive to see the Durham (NC) Bulls in their
home stadium, and back. I also read Pat Conroy novels and studied the history
of the civil rights movement. I watched Hollywood's take on things southern: Bull
Durham, Mississippi Burning, Forrest Gump, Deliverance, Glory, and Fried Green
Tomatoes, among others. But I always suspected that I would never understand
the South just by visiting, reading, listening to the African-American blues
greats, or watching movies.
My life journey eventually
churned up a chance to live and work here. So the Rising Family™ has been enjoying and absorbing southern culture for about 20 months now. I can't
claim to fully understand it yet, but I sure as heck am appreciating the Southern
lifestyle.
Yikes, this prelude
has become rather long. So I’ll just plunk in a few photos as foreplay for the
next post.
This storefront in Tennessee,
reminded me of Northern Exposure, the quirky favorite TV series of mine from
the 1990s.
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