Here are a few more impressions from the latter half of our family holiday in Vietnam. Southeast Asia has always held a special place in my heart ever since a course I took while in university titled "The Vietnam War in Perspective." Heavy sociopolitical lessons aside, during this trip we saw many places in Vietnam where history was made.
Our remaining days there turned out to be a fun mix of dodging motorbikes at intersections like human Frogger champions, taking more than few trips to rural areas outside HCMC, and discovering the taste of egg coffee and the rich, distinctive flavor of durian, the so-called "King of Fruits." Here's a few glimpses of those walking trips in Ho Chi Minh City and our travels beyond the city.
Day 5
We started our day by walking to the War Remnants Museum, which provides a graphic account of Vietnam's wars during the Cold War era. On the way there, a friendly coconut seller convinced me to hoist a giant bough of coconuts to get a discount—a photo opportunity I couldn't resist! (Naomi is a big fan of naturally sweet coconut juice.) The museum itself was a powerful and moving experience, chronicling the Vietnam War primarily from the Vietnamese perspective—as it should be. I'm glad we visited the museum, and hopefully our daughters absorbed some of its tragic lessons.
Day 6
Day six was all about our much-anticipated adventures in the natural surroundings and wilderness south of HCMC. The bus ride was a bumpy affair, crammed with around 20 fellow tourists, but the promise of real mangrove forests and jungle kept our spirits high. A short ferry ride, though an old diesel beast, offered up-close views of the brown Saigon River, a sight neither Naomi nor I wanted to miss. We made a quick stop at Ca Gia Mai, a spa-like place to eat a local lunch before continuing to the Monkey Island sanctuary and the SAC North Vietnamese Army jungle camp. The multitude of monkeys were the undisputed stars of the show because they managed to snatch a couple of pairs of sunglasses from some of our unsuspecting fellow tourists. We then ventured into the jungle mangroves via speedboat to the replica NVA camp to see how the soldiers lived and fought during the war. We also encountered a small group of Vietnamese officials, all clad in olive green uniforms—an interesting sight to be sure. The bus ride back to the hotel proved to be a bit of a snoozefest for the girls, while I spent the time marveling at the endless stream of owner-operated shops lining the highway. Even though Vietnam is still officially a socialist state, the overall vibe felt openly and ecstatically capitalist. 
Day 7
Another morning, another convenient pick-up at our hotel! This time it was for our Cu Chi Tunnels visit about 50 km north of HCMC. The tunnels are an immense network of connecting passages and underground installations used by Viet Cong guerrillas to hide and prepare for their military operations during the war in the 1960s. Our charismatic tour leader, who called himself "Super Jason," led our group of 11 to his minivan and introduced the driver. We made a stop at the Agent Orange Victims' craft store on the way, where I bought a fridge magnet. The two-hour ride through heavy traffic, then lush countryside, offered a fascinating glimpse into the lives of everyday people. Super Jason's tour was a real rock-and-roll affair. During the drive, he held up his laptop to show us videos about the tunnels and the political context, and then hosted a Q&A afterward. After we arrived, most of the tour participants -- including the Rising Family™ -- tried the Cu Chi tunnel passages and ventured into the underground bunkers. It was a dark and claustrophobic experience, something I won't forget.
Day 8: Saigon History Revisited
On the last day of our vacation, I was determined to see the former CIA station chief's apartment rooftop, something only I wanted to do. For me, seeing that spot on the rooftop was akin to seeing tangible history, or at least something that happened within my lifetime. So I woke up early in the morning and went on this solo sightseeing trek because it was not far from our hotel. At that early hour, it was eerily quiet, with only sleepy-looking security guards protecting government buildings and joggers. Reaching the corner near the City Hall building, I spent a few minutes at Ho Chi Minh's statue. Soon, I found the old apartment building, then took a moment to soak in the view and contemplate the black-and-white photos depicting Saigon in 1975 when North Vietnamese Army tanks were on the city's streets and Vietnam War hostilities were nearly over. It was a chance to ponder what life might have been like during that chaotic period when desperate people were scrambling onto rooftops to escape the city by helicopter. 
Anyway, it was our last day in HCMC. It was time for some final pampering and last-chance enjoyment. We treated Elena and Marina to facials and massages for Naomi and me. The square in front of our hotel was packed with people celebrating from late afternoon onward since it was the evening before New Year's. So we ended our trip to Vietnam the same way we started it: eating from street food stalls, listening to music, and soaking up the holiday atmosphere and the buzz of happiness in the air. We could not have asked for a better way to end the trip and the year 2023.
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